Travel Reflections

After four months of living in Japan I still find myself trying to understand what lies at the heart of Japanese society. However, I come away with a few observations that point to the overall shape of Japanese core values. In this society I have observed a marked difference between outward appearances and inner life, a preoccupation with routines and a fusion of tradition with modernity.

Back in March I had a somewhat simplistic view of Japan and Japanese people. I had the fanciful idea that everyone was incredibly polite and well intentioned. While the kindness is often genuine, I have now noticed this politeness is frequently a façade that hides true emotions. I still find it difficult to know what most of my Japanese friends are feeling because they remain perpetually upbeat and cheerful. Also, conformity is common yet so are intimacy and a high degree of comfort between people in small groups. However, for me it has proven difficult to truly enter into that intimate space.

My first encounter with this distinction between outward behavior and inner feelings occurred at my first time at an Izakaya, or Japanese pub. After being told there were no table or food charges the owner proceeded to charge us 1,000 yen per person for seating and 1,000 yen for food that we did not order. As we attempted to refute the bill the lady became gradually harsher in nature until she lost all sense of courtesy and threatened us with reporting us to the police and to our school. This encounter opened my eyes to the reality that not all Japanese people are polite and that the calm exteriors I frequently observe on people’s faces often mask intense emotions.

While this experience shattered my naïve view of Japanese hospitality it also made more evident occasions in which I experienced true graciousness. For instance, my friend’s grandmother in Nagoya showered me with gifts and kindness when I visited her home, even buying McDonalds for me for breakfast because that was what she believed young people eat in the morning.

Despite the shallowness of certain encounters I have had I believe many people are very genuine. Everyone is an individual and despite outward similarities it is important to note the difference between forced kindness and genuine kindness. Nonetheless, Japanese good manners mixed with genuineness can be incredibly welcoming.

Another cultural custom I noted is an emphasis on rules. Japanese values seem to involve an intangible and innate sense of ‘right’ behavior. Rules and routines reflect and reinforce this sense of correct conduct. These often unspoken rituals of conduct are intrinsically connected to pride in observance of ‘right’ behavior. It is hard to pinpoint these values, they have to do with reputation and honor, but you will know if you have behaved in actions inconsistent with them.

Lastly, especially in Kyoto a true fusion of the traditional and the modern makes Japan a unique place in the world. On almost every street of Kyoto there are temples and shrines that hark back to ancient Japan. With the Gion festival this week tradition can be seen preserved immaculately on modern streets. This ancient Shinto festival still holds enormous significance for many Japanese people.

Perhaps it is the continuity and comfort of old traditions that appeal to so many Japanese people. Despite Japan’s receptiveness and adoption of new ideas from other cultures the lasting presence of their own ancient traditions must give the Japanese a sense of their own identity. Moreover, Kyoto is an amazing place to witness this molding of the old and new. Geisha still walk about and young men and women wear kimonos and yukatas, appearing as if they could have come straight out of the 16th century.

Despite that what really makes the heart of Japan beat feels just out of my reach, I have clues that point to this heartbeat. During a tea ceremony I attended for Wagashi class I felt the importance of community, ritual and darkness all at once. In my mind the darkness represented the mystery of emotion beneath the stoic or cheerful faces of Japanese people, the community of attendees symbolized the conformity of a group and the importance of collective action, and the rituals represented the importance of ‘right’ behavior. The tea ceremony is itself a symbol of the persistence of ancient traditions in modern day life and its importance to the Japanese cultural identity.

It's been a while since I wrote on here last. I guess I've become a bit undisciplined with the blog. My friend Travis, who also blogs, was telling me the other day an interesting fact; that despite his love for writing it is always the last activity he gets to in his busy day. I suppose the same rings true for myself too sometimes.

Anyway, the past month has really been wonderful. I've not been in school but have just been enjoying myself in DC, growing closer to important people in my life. And yet, I'm shifting to another great trip right now, Panama. It's a multigenerational adventure, with myself, my dad, who will be joining us tomorrow, and my grandfather. The two of them are here looking for possible real estate options and I'm along for the ride, lending as much assistance with Spanish as I can.

We flew in today, and drove through the typical lushness of the Central American wilderness from the airport, until, all the sudden, a city appeared. This city is really so developed that it caught me off guard, reminding me of any American one. The view from the hotel is spectacular, you can see the whole skyline...the Panamanians really have a fondness for tall and sleek looking buildings. It is an all together modern looking city.

Knowing Spanish has also really come in handy, and, so far, to my great delight my Spanish has been coming right back to me; most of the time I have been able to be entirely conversant with the people here. It is really incredibly exciting being able to speak in Spanish, it is a thrill every time I'm understood or I understand someone else!

The city, while from above may look just like an American one, has quite a different feel to it on the ground. It all looks so organized from above but all the sudden a sidewalk may end, and it may be impossible to cross a street because of construction, etc. It's just an entirely different feeling. From the onset the people seemed friendly and carefree, though they are not the best drivers! You have to be more aggressive crossing the street here than even in NYC! Anyway, so far I enjoy the atmosphere of this country and find the culture inviting.

How to begin? Just yesterday I returned from my Birthright trip in Israel. It was at once an in depth and whirlwind excursion through the country. My first observation was of flying into Tel Aviv, of skyscrapers lining the beautiful Mediterranean Sea. I was amazed by the modernity of the place. I suppose I was expecting sand dunes and, perhaps small buildings, but I was greeted by a bustling Western city.

We spent most of our time in Jerusalem, and it was there, in the Old City, that I think I was most awed. The historical significance of that small stretch of land encompassing the Western Wall and the Al-Aqsa Mosque is incredible. It really was there that the biblical texts had their moment in time, and I tried to imagine Abraham, Jesus and Mohammed all walking about in this land contemplating the nature of life.

It was then I remember hearing about the ceasefire with Hamas ending in the Gaza strip. For the next three days we slept in a Bedouin tent, rode on camels in the desert, floated in the Dead Sea and drove north to Tiberias.

I remember hearing in the morning that rockets were being fired into Southern Israel. I remember thinking that this constant barrage of violence, this perpetual state of conflict and tension in the air explains the external rigidity of these people. In general, and I hate to use generalizations, I remember the Israelis being friendly yet tough and direct in conversation.

The mystical city of Tzefat was wonderful, and the atmosphere seemed lighter than the air of other places we had been. The shop owners took their time talking to us, explaining the rejuvenating properties of stones and ancient philosophies from the Kabbalah. Unique art lay on the sides of cobblestone roads.

I'll write more about my personal reflections on Judaism in the coming days but I wanted to note today that it seemed strange to return to the US and to hear news of the recent conflict. It seemed strange to see Israel being termed the aggressor in this recent conflict. I understand the Palestinians in Gaza are infuriated with Israel, it was indeed their land for many centuries before 1948. However, Israel is now a democratic state, with a population of not only Jews but also Arabs, and Hamas' refusal to recognize it and their constant, daily, rocket attacks create a state of perpetual tension.

I do believe in the contribution effect, that each action taken contributes to the problem as a whole. The conditions in Israel for Arab Israelis, Palestinian refugees and the Palestinians in Gaza are rather harsh. Arabs have a very tough time traveling through the country, they face discrimination in schools and in the work force and many do not even have passports. It does seem to create a second class citizen effect.

However, to expect Israel to do nothing, as it seems most of the media does, in response to the rocket attacks from Gaza is absurd. What is Israel supposed to do then? Just concede to Hamas and allow the bombardments? The US would certainly do no such thing if it happened here.

It truly is a tragedy that so many are now dying in Gaza. It is perhaps an even greater tragedy that children on both sides are growing up with renewed hatred for the other. It makes me wonder if I will see anything close to a resolution to this conflict in my lifetime. While the historical context is different in Israel-Palestine, how would most European countries and the United States react to rockets being fired on their soil? There would most certainly be a military response. It seems the world doesn't believe Israel has the right to exist. That being said, Israel should be as vigilant as it can in reducing harm to civilians, and it is true that their weapons compared to the Palestinian's are far more advanced and grossly disproportionate in amount.

As everyone has been saying for decades both sides need to come to the table in constructive ways, teach their youth about diplomacy and tolerance, and envision the day in which this conflict will end not in terms of a victory and loss but as a reality of coexistence.

This day is undoubtedly far off. I remember talking to an Israeli soldier who accompanied us for a few days on the trip about how he thinks this conflict could or rather could not be resolved. He in fact told me that he just really doesn't believe it can or will, and that sporadic wars await the region indefinitely. It seems we differed in our levels of optimism, though I am seriously questioning my own.

Perhaps this conflict will go on for a long time; the change I think that must occur will be in terms of mindset and belief. Both parties must somehow again believe that a resolution is possible. While through a certain lens one could see Israel as an occupation, getting stuck in the belief of the illegitimacy of Israel does not bring the region close to peace. And coming to the table with bitterness, hopelessness and overwhelming military force further outrages Palestinians.

It seems a new energy is needed. I think that is why this recent violence is so troubling to me, because it pushes hope further away and reinforces desperation, and a feeling that the situation is beyond repair.

Sitting in my room in Greenwich, CT, I think of that enigmatic place, Israel. After having finished finals and stopped over in CT, I've seen all four parents and my three sisters. All of the time I've spent here these past two days has been rewarding. I've finally had a substantial conversation with mom and we seem to be in a good place with one another. I remember driving back last night as the snow began to fall. While I was nervous on the one hand because the roads were slippery, on the other I was delighted to see snow; it reminded me of high school and falling asleep in my warm bed, anticipating school delays and cancellations. Thinking of it all made me realize how fast the time goes by and that I am already half way through college. Packing, relishing the snow, thinking of the good times I've spent in CT, my mind turns to Israel and how it feels so surreal that I will soon be there.